When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. However, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.
The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the owners totally surprised.
“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.
This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.
Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.
It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.
It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.
It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.
In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.
Liam is a travel enthusiast and blogger with a passion for uncovering the best travel deals around the world.